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WEEK 12 - June 8 to June 14, 1981 |
June 9, 1981
Stayed all day yesterday in Delaware Water Gap. I had the hostel all to myself yesterday as Pete got himself entertained by a ranger and everyone else hit the trail by mid-afternoon. The ranger told Pete that the snake that we saw was probably a hognose snake. I saw plenty of wildlife today - a black snake, a turkey and her flock, and several deer. I started the day in the rain but by noon it had gradually cleared, staying sunny and breezy into the evening. Am presently camped on the ridge just past Brink Road shelter with Pete, Stu, and Scott. Joe, the other thruhiker who stayed at the hostel last, is off-trail for good - to get married. The strawberries and blueberries are beginning to ripen.
June 10, 1981
I felt tired all day yesterday and today. One day off in Delaware Water Gap didn’t seem to be enough rest. I think it is partially the sore knee and sore ankle from the Pennsylvania rocks. The trail still has fairly long rocky stretches and my timing and stride are off. I need some "real" trail. Pennsylvania gets my vote as the most tedious (and painful) state. I saw a grouse today go into the limp and squeal act but I could not locate the nest that I was so obviously near. New Jersey so far has been dull traveling with the view yesterday from Rattlesnake Mt. being the only thing picture-worthy. Have arrived today at High Point shelter. Tomorrow’s trail includes about a ten mile road walk. The New Jersey shelters are all dirt floors and generally trashy. Pete has charged on ahead to try to make a mail drop at Bear Mt. by Saturday. This morning when I got up I walked out to the highway and got there just as the bakery opened. I bought a half dozen fresh, hot cinnamon rolls and a quart of milk and had a mmmmm-good second breakfast.
June 11, 1981
A 22 mile day, about half of which was on roads. Actually, it was not too bad. In fact I appreciated getting off the rocky trails. I felt very strong to the end of the day - a radical change from the last two days that I dragged through. I got to the camping area about 4 p.m. where I met two women who were on a short southbound trip. They are both students from Rochester. I did some creative water searching as there was none at the site. It turned out to be interesting. I followed a stream uphill hunting its source and came to what I later found out is Lake Wawayanda. Near the outlet I saw a large white heron. I took a picture back towards High Point where I had started the day.
June 12, 1981
Today was a short hike of about seven miles to "Roger’s Appalachian Cottage". This short stretch also carried me out of New Jersey and into New York. There were good views and easy walking on the mountain top. Roger is a New York high school history teacher. One stormy evening a group of scouts made their way down to his college and he gave them refuge. This became a habit and, eventually, he offered free meals and lodging to long distance hikers. He has had over 300 guests since beginning this practice and keeps a trail register and a map with pins to indicate the home towns of thruhikers. Roger has signs on all parts of the trail. I had passed through too early to see most of them but they read something like "Cheer up! Only 1200 miles to Roger’s Appalachian Cottage". Roger says that his hospitality costs him about $300 per year. The evening that I stayed I had beer, dinner and a mixed drink, and a slide show of some of the other through hikers who have gone through and of AT scenery. Dinner was pork chops, potatoes, red cabbage, and corn on the cob. Here with me this evening are Chris and Stu from New York, Scott from California, and Jim from (?). We are the second through hiker group this year to visit Roger. Stu and I are the youngest (19) and oldest, respectively, to pass through this year. Stu’s "youngest" status may hold; my "oldest" will probably not.
June 13, 1981
Got a late start from Roger’s. I probably would have been wiser to skip his breakfast and get underway immediately. I had to stop after a short time and eat my own breakfast anyway. The trail had been rerouted down off the ridge specifically to pass by Fitzgerald falls but it definitely was not worth the effort. The waterfall is small and is in a heavily used, trashy area. There have been several reroutes and the mileage in the guide book and on the signs is confused. The data book doesn’t seem to be correct. When Scott and I arrived at Fingerboard shelter we were greeted by a short time hiker with "Thank God! I thought I was going to be alone." He hates staying outdoors and was glad for the company. Since he was getting off the trail tomorrow, he gave us cheese, breadsticks, and fuel. I supplemented the food with some soup and made that do for dinner. He (Tony) races pigeons for a hobby and told us all about how they are clocked, bred, and raced. The water at the shelter was far down the hill in a slow moving spring that was full of dead gypsy moth caterpillars (there has been more devastation here) and tasted strongly of hemlock needles. I boiled two quarts for use but warm water is not very thirst quenching. The boiling did take some of the taste away. The next morning I chlorinated some. It tasted so strong that it was barely drinkable, even when I was thirsty.
June 14, 1981
Reached the geographic low point of the trail today at Bear Mt. Park. This was also probably the most crowded place also as I got there on a Sunday and there is a boat that comes up the Hudson River from New York carrying thousands of people at a time. I settled down for lunch in an empty grassy spot and by the time I was finished eating I was surrounded by people. I stayed the night at the Graymore monastery. It features all-you-can-eat dinner and breakfast and lodging in a private room - all free. Today was the feast of St. Anthony’s and the monastery was mobbed. One of the priests estimated 8000 visitors that day. They had 107 buses and over 1500 cars. The surprise of the day was catching up with Tom Crutcher at Graymore. He has been relaxing by traveling with Dan, who is a section hiker leading a group of scouts to Kent.